On the Caribbean coast of southern Martinique, the town of Anses-d’Arlet strings together a series of sheltered bays that rank among the most photogenic on the island. Three of them attract the bulk of the visits: Grande Anse, Petite Anse (the village) and Anse Dufour. You can do all three in one well-paced day, provided you know the ideal order to visit them and, above all, the afternoon parking trap. Here is a route tested and fine-tuned for travelers staying in the South.
Why Anses-d’Arlet deserves a full day
The town sits about 35 km from Fort-de-France, a 45-minute to 1-hour drive depending on traffic from the capital, and only 15 to 20 minutes from Le Diamant or Les Trois-Îlets. The road winds down through a series of bends in dense vegetation before opening onto turquoise waters. There’s no big seaside resort here: it’s a fishing-village vibe, with colorful yoles hauled up on the sand and a few Creole snack stands.
The area’s main appeal lies in its density: within a few kilometers you’ll find a world-famous spot for sea turtles, several snorkeling sites along rocky drop-offs, a church facing a pier that has become an Instagram icon, and family beaches with pale sand. All of this during the dry season (the Carême, December to April), the most stable period for swimming and underwater visibility.
Good to know: Martinique is a French department (DROM). You pay in euros, speak French (and hear Creole), and the phone code is +596. The time difference with Paris is -5h in winter and -6h in summer.
Stage 1: Anse Dufour, swimming with turtles in the morning
This is the stage to put first, ideally before 9 a.m. Anse Dufour is the star spot for watching the green turtles that come to graze the seagrass beds just a few meters from shore. In the morning the water is calmer, the light is better and, above all, the tiny parking lot isn’t full yet.
How to see the turtles without disturbing them
- Stay at the surface, with fins-mask-snorkel, and leave at least 3 to 5 meters between you and the animal.
- Never touch a turtle or block its path to the surface: it needs to breathe.
- The best sightings are on the right-hand half of the bay, along the seagrass beds, in 2 to 4 meters of water.
- Avoid conventional sunscreens: prefer a UV-protective rash guard or a “reef-safe” cream.
On foot, a coastal trail of about ten minutes links Anse Dufour to Anse Noire, famous for its black volcanic sand that contrasts with the pale sand next door. It’s a worthwhile detour for snorkeling along the rocks, where you’ll often see parrotfish and sometimes turtles here too.
Stage 2: Petite Anse and the village’s iconic church
Get back in the car to reach the village of Anses-d’Arlet, located on Petite Anse. It’s the heart of the town and the most recognizable postcard image of southern Martinique: the Saint-Henri church, white and ochre, lined up along the axis of a long wooden pier that reaches out into the sea. The classic framing is taken from the end of the pier, looking back toward the bell tower.
What to do in the village
- Snorkeling at the pier: the pilings and rocks on each side shelter a surprisingly rich underwater life, accessible to beginners.
- Lunch break: the seafront snack stands and restaurants serve accras, grilled fish and bokits. Expect around €12 to €20 per dish, a little more for a full fish menu.
- Church photo: early morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and the harsh midday light.
- Family swimming: the village beach slopes gently, ideal with children.
The village also has restrooms, showers and a few shops to stock up on water and ice. It’s the right place for a proper break before the final stage.
Stage 3: Grande Anse, relaxing and watching the sunset
A few minutes north of the village, Grande Anse is the largest of the three beaches. Lined with sea grapes and coconut palms, it offers wide shaded areas, calm water and a lively seafront with bars, kayak rentals and boat excursions. This is the beach where you settle in for the afternoon.
Boat trips also depart from Grande Anse to the neighboring Anses-d’Arlet and the Diamant bay, along with guided snorkeling outings. Generally expect €30 to €50 per person for a half-day depending on the operator and the package (drinks, equipment included or not).
Grande Anse faces due west: it’s one of the best sunset spots in the southern Caribbean. Ending the day here, ti-punch in hand, is the logical conclusion to the route.
