On the road to the Pointe des Chateaux, most visitors drive straight on toward the cross and its panorama. Without realizing it, they pass right by one of the finest beaches in Grande-Terre: Anse a la Gourde, in Saint-Francois. It’s the one I recommend whenever someone asks me for “a turquoise beach, but without the crowds of La Caravelle.” A lagoon sheltered by the coral reef, pale sand, sea grape trees for shade and steady trade winds: here is the complete guide, field-tested in every season.
Why Anse a la Gourde remains an unspoiled beach
The secret of this beach comes down to three natural elements rarely combined so well anywhere else in Guadeloupe.
A lagoon protected by the coral reef
About 200 to 300 metres from shore, a barrier reef breaks the Atlantic swell. Even when the ocean is rough offshore (a common sight on this eastern coast of Grande-Terre), the lagoon stays calm, shallow and crystal clear. You can stand for a good fifty metres out, in water at 27-29 °C all year round: a sheltered beach that’s ideal for families, as long as you stay within the lagoon (more on that below).
Trade winds that cool you off without spoiling things
The cove faces due east, into the trade winds: a near-constant breeze of 15 to 25 km/h makes the heat very bearable, even at midday in the dry season. The flip side is that a classic parasol holds poorly here — bring a screw-in model or settle beneath the seaside sea grape trees that line the entire beach and offer generous natural shade.
A protected site, so zero concrete
Anse a la Gourde is part of the protected site of the Pointe des Chateaux, managed by the Conservatoire du littoral. That’s the guarantee that this wild Grande-Terre beach will stay just as it is: no construction, no loungers for hire, no jet-skis, no music. The connoisseurs come for exactly that.
Access, parking and the best hours to enjoy it
How to get there from Saint-Francois
- By car: from the town of Saint-Francois, take the road to the Pointe des Chateaux (D118) for about 4 km, roughly 7 to 8 minutes. The “Anse a la Gourde” sign is discreet, on your left: a sandy track of about a hundred metres leads to a free shaded car park under the trees.
- From Sainte-Anne: allow 25 minutes (about 15 km) via the N4 then the D118.
- From Pole Caraibes airport (Pointe-a-Pitre): 45 to 55 minutes depending on traffic around Le Gosier, about 38 km. A car is essential — no bus serves the beach.
The car park never overflows on weekdays. On Sunday, family picnic day, aim for before 9:30 a.m. or after 3 p.m.
The time slots I recommend to our travellers
- 6:30 - 9 a.m.: golden sunrise light facing east, glassy water, an almost deserted beach.
- 9 - 11:30 a.m.: best window for snorkelling, high sun and so good visibility, trade winds still moderate.
- 3:30 - 5:30 p.m.: the heat eases, the locals arrive for their evening swim, an authentic atmosphere.
- To avoid: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. without planned shade, and Sunday lunchtime if you’re after absolute calm.
In the dry season (December to April), the lagoon water is at its clearest. In the rainy season, keep an eye out for sargassum episodes, to which this coast is exposed at times: check the town’s bulletins the day before, or ask us on WhatsApp — we follow it closely for our travellers.
What to do here: snorkelling, walking and lazing about
Snorkelling in the lagoon
Without matching the richness of the Cousteau Reserve in Bouillante (still THE diving reference of the archipelago, on the Basse-Terre side), the Anse a la Gourde lagoon offers lovely snorkelling accessible to everyone:
- Seagrass beds 30-50 m from shore: boxfish, white sea urchins, sometimes a stingray resting on the sand.
- Coral heads toward the right side of the cove: sergeant majors, parrotfish, sea fans.
- Gear: bring your own (mask and snorkel around €25-35 in a sports shop in Saint-Francois), nothing is rented on site.
You must stay inside the lagoon: at the pass and behind the reef, the current can be strong and the beach is not supervised.
The mini-hike toward the Pointe des Chateaux
From the right-hand end of the beach, a coastal path runs along the wild coves toward the Pointe des Chateaux: 45 minutes to 1 hour of easy walking (closed shoes, water and a cap, no shade in places). One of the finest coastal walks in Grande-Terre, with coves where you’ll often be alone.
The practical side: what you need to know
- No services on site: no shower, no permanent snack bar. Stock up on water and something to nibble in the town of Saint-Francois (bakeries open from 6 a.m., supermarket open Sunday morning).
- Food trucks: on some weekends and in high season, a truck sells bokits (€6-8) and cane juice (€3-4) at the entrance. Don’t count on it on weekdays.
- Safety: leave nothing visible in the car, as on any isolated beach car park.
- Tide: swimming is most pleasant at mid-high or high tide, the lagoon emptying in places at low tide.
